The Kicks You Wear: Virgil Abloh’s Legacy Continues

Good morning, friends! Welcome back to the Kicks You Wear. Thanks so much for reading today. Appreciate you giving me a bit of your time this morning.

The days are getting cooler here in Maryland. It’s awful. I woke up this morning with chills. Bring back summer, please. I don’t need the weather to change to get a fit off.

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Nike’s Next Virgil Abloh Project

It seems like the new “Virgil Abloh: The Codes” exhibition might not be the only thing the Virgil Abloh Archives and Nike are unveiling to the public at Paris Fashion Week. For the first time in a long time, it feels like we’re closer than ever to a Virgil Abloh Archives footwear collaboration with Nike.

What’s new: New silhouettes seemingly designed by the Virgil Abloh Archives have surfaced online as photos from “The Codes” continue to trickle out.

Both models had the signature deconstructed looks we’re used to from Abloh’s previous Nike x Off-White collaborations. The AF1 had the frayed swoosh and collar with the “Air” in quotations on the midsole. The Cryoshot featured air on its heel, accompanied by Abloh’s signature red hangtag for contrast.

Look closer: The hangtags featured here are what actually make these models interesting.

• Internet sleuths pointed out that the hang tags on both of these shoes didn’t mention Off-White.
• The Air Force One says “V.A.A Codes” and is marked for 2025. The Cryoshot says “V.A.A for Nike” and is marked for 2026.

Why this matters: It’s unclear whether these shoes will have a public release. But, if they do, they’d be the first Nike projects in partnership with a Virgil Abloh brand since the sportswear giant released the Off-White x Nike Air Force 1 Mid in 2023. And, to add another layer to this, they’d be the first Virgil Abloh project released by Nike that isn’t in collaboration with Off-White.

• Remember: Shannon Abloh and Virgil Abloh Securities separated from Off-White years ago after Virgil’s death.
• The posthumous projects we’ve gotten with Off-White branding were all pieces Abloh had already designed.

Zoom out: People have been waiting for Nike and the Virgil Abloh Archives to collaborate on a product for years. Instead, most of what fans have gotten so far have just been rumoured models and release dates. The Off-White Sesame Air Force 1 is the closest we’ve been to anything real. Even this moment, with the pieces seen at the archives, is based on conjecture.

The big picture: What seems more evident to me now than ever, though, is that there’s certainly something coming down the pipeline between Nike and Abloh’s family. Between the display of these new models plus the fact that Nike is backing the Virgil Abloh Archives project at Paris Fashion Week, the relationship between the two sides seems healthy. And there are too many fans out there who would buy this stuff for both sides to pass up on it.

The other side: I think there’s a question to be asked about whether Abloh’s legacy should be left alone following his passing. His portfolio is already vast and critically acclaimed. To me, there doesn’t really seem to be a reason to produce more.

In theory, any new Virgil Abloh Archives Nike collaboration would be similar to the brand’s posthumous releases of Kobe Bryant signature sneakers.

• They’ve worked with Bryant’s widow, Vanessa, and created numerous new colourways and models that the legendary NBA star never wore.
• The same would happen here. Whatever Nike sells would either be an old project Abloh never got to release or a new project entirely that he didn’t design.

If that’s the case, is it still worth it? Would the collaboration mean the same thing? There’s a valid argument to make that it wouldn’t.

Regardless of my questions, this feels like it’s happening. And, if I had to put money on it, I’d say it’s probably happening soon.

Nike’s Next Steps

If you really want to catch the vibe of a company, jump in on one of its earnings calls. You can tell by the tone of voice from the company’s leaders what sort of shape things are in.

For the first time in a long time, Nike CEO Elliott Hill sounded a little chipper.

What happened: I listened to Nike’s latest earnings call for the quarter ending on Aug. 31. For the first time, the company had wins to talk about. It gained in revenue for the first time since 2024, it launched NikeSkims last week and it also moved into the “Sport Offense” phase of its new strategy.

Four big (but brief!) takeaways:

1. Nike’s Renewed Focus on Sports
1. The brand is reorganising across Nike, Jordan Brand and Converse by sports categories instead of by men’s, women’s and kids’ categories.
2. “We’re able to take consumers into a world of Jordan, a world of Nike running or a world of global football,” Hill said.
3. The brand has already tested the strategy with its running category and saw 20 percent sales growth for the quarter following its reorganisation.
2. The Classics Aren’t Working
1. Nike has seen a 30 percent decline in classic footwear sales (meaning models like the Air Force 1, Air Jordan 1 and Nike Dunk).
2. The brand is slowly peeling back inventory levels of those styles as sales continue to wane.
3. Wholesale is Up, Direct is Down
1. Nike started the early 2020s by focusing on a direct-to-consumer strategy that sent customers online to shop and peeled its products away from wholesale partners like Foot Locker, Macy’s and more.
2. That strategy has reversed. Nike Digital sales are down by 12 percent. Meanwhile, Nike’s wholesale business has increased from $6.8 billion this quarter, up from $6.4 billion in its last.
4. Converse is still a struggle
1. Converse had a 27 percent revenue decline for the quarter at $366 billion. That’s a slightly worse decline than the 26 percent it saw at the end of last quarter.
2. Hill still believes in the brand despite its struggles. Nike has hired longtime vet Aaron Cain as its lead executive and is making a big push behind Shai Gilgeous-Alexander’s new signature basketball shoe.

The big picture: Things aren’t perfect for Nike — not even close. I think some of these things could potentially be gravely concerning for the brand. But this is undoubtedly the best spot the company has been in in years.

You can read a more detailed version of this story in BoF’s This Week In Fashion column.

A Blast From the Past

Maison Margiela is bringing its Future sneaker and, all of a sudden, it feels like I’m back in college again.

Wait, what? The French fashion house posted a photo on Instagram of a strap-covered variation of its hit Future sneaker that was originally released in 2011. This was the Margiela high-top shoe, which featured a humongous (and arguably out-of-place) strap covering the tongue.

The wayback machine: The Zoomers among us might not remember, but this sneaker was an absolute hit among the celebrity class back in the day.

• Name a prominent rapper or athlete from the early 2010s and I’d be willing to bet money that they had a pair of these.
• This isn’t the first time Margiela has revived these. The fashion house brought them back to destroy them eight years ago in 2017 with a distressed pair.

Now, the shoe is back again for Margiela’s Co-Ed Spring/Summer ‘26 show, being held this weekend on Oct. 4.

Why this matters: I’m interested in seeing the reaction to these. Again, these were a hit back in the day. But in 2025, they feel a bit out of place to me. Their peak was during hip-hop’s swag era, when we were all rocking the skinniest of jeans and wearing the deepest V-neck t-shirts possible. I’m not sure that these work today.

But maybe they don’t have to work. The fact that I’m sitting here telling you about them is probably more than enough for Margiela. The stunt worked.

The Timberland Telfar

I’ll have to drop this one in the “Things I didn’t think needed to exist but I’m so glad they do” bucket.

What’s happening: Timberland and Telfar pulled off a cultural exchange of sorts with their new collaboration.

• Telfar is releasing a collection of bags and boots with Timberland, featuring the brand’s classic wheat and black colourways.
• The handbags featured in the collection will be made from nubuck leather, just like Timberland’s boots are.
• The actual Timberland boot was also remodelled into two variations of a pull-on boot and a boot loafer.

Why I like this: It’s weird! Very weird. But weird footwear is good in 2025 — ask everyone walking around in these various sneaker loafers.

To me, this is how you do a collaboration. Both sides give and take. Timberland transforms its boot into something different for Telfar and Telfar transforms its bag using Timberland’s iconic design language. I’m really just enjoying this.

The rest of the fashion industry should take note.

#TheKicksWeWear

This is the community section of the newsletter where you (Yes, you!!!!) send me your best fits and kicks from the week. Feel free to send submissions to michael.sykes@businessoffashion.com or shoot me a message via social channels @MikeDSykes

LET’S GOOOOOOO.

First, the homie Alexander got us started with these Kevin Garnett Flightposites. I haven’t seen these in SO LONG. What a pull, y’all.

Then the homie Dave kept things going with these Liverpool Bron 9s. I never ever ever get tired of this colourway.

The homie Storm came through with all her fall fits and a bunch of fire sneakers. I can’t get enough of the Kasina Air Max 1.

My guy Patrick pulled out the Bacon Air Max joints. These are HEAT.

Then the homie D took us home with the JG 01. The quality on these, y’all! Wow.

Great stuff, gang.

Thanks for reading, gang! Hope you enjoyed the newsletter.

If you have any questions, comments or concerns, reach out to me via email at michael.sykes@businessoffashion.com or shoot me a message @MikeDSykes via socials.

Peace and love. Be safe, be easy, be kind. We out.

-Sykes 💯